Reflections on the Sea

“From Duncansby to Ord Head

See what grandeur decks the coast;

Of her coastline, may not Caithness

With good reason proudly boast?”   James Bremner

Where else to write about the sea than at the sea? I have come to the bay that nestles between Noss Head and Sinclair Girnigoe. A treasure that only a few seem to visit and just one of the hidden gems we have lying on our shores in Caithness. Lying between crags, cliffs and caves with soft carpets of white sand and turquoise shallow waters, these little beaches are isolated and exquisitely enticing for photographers, wildlife spotters or anyone who just likes the sea, like me.

No part of the coast is the same and that is why there is still so much for me to explore. Just this weekend I was at Scotland’s Haven, a bay overlooking Orkney, at East Mey; a bay well worth visiting for its seclusion and sheltered location.  This is the first season I have noticed the delightful fragrance of the gorse bushes, a  heady mix of coconut and blossom. How have I missed that?! A short, but rough path will take you on a circuit to the point and along to the haven. A sunny day will give you tantalisingly blue seas that look surprisingly tropical. Watch out for the seals and other wildlife.  And another favourite place I like to visit is Peedee Sands at Dunnet Head, a short, sharp hike and climb from Dwarwick Pier, but worth it for the views and the luxury of your own private beach for the day.

So why the sea? Why am I drawn to it again and again and why does it feature so frequently in my paintings? We are blessed in this beautiful county with miles of unspoilt, rugged, natural coastline.  Yet scattered and dotted every few miles are reminders of how man has tried to harness and tame the sea over the years to suit his needs. Derelict harbours are abundant and you can hardly walk down into a bay without seeing the skeletal, rusting remains of a winch or a long abandoned ice house; signs of a once thriving fishing industry. I am thinking about bays like Sarclet with its steep incline or Whalligoe and its steps cut into the cliff face.  Or how about Keiss Harbour or Freswick? There’s so many of them it’s difficult to choose.

The truth is that the sea has shaped Caithness, both literally and metaphorically, into the place that it is today. Physically it has shaped the coastline, creating bays, inlets, beaches and cliffs, but it has formed the character of the people too. Sea is in the blood, so to speak!

And I think that once it is in the blood it is difficult to get away from. It is part of one’s identity. The sea can be soothing, calming and tranquil on one day, yet on another we can be humbled by its power and strength.  How many of us went to witness the huge waves that last winter’s storms brought with it? Immense waves that continually rolled onto our shores. That is what draws me to it. Nature in its rawest form and knowing that the sea has always been here and will be here long after I am gone reminding me that there are powers much mightier than I.

And finally as I sit here now my eyes are drawn across the bay to Reiss and Keiss beaches. And I think about the miles of dunes and sand at Dunnet. The North Sea has been kind to us and created stretches of beach that we can play on, walk on and draw closer to nature. I am slightly worried though. The joy for me of the far north is the quiet and the peace. Let’s not be telling too many people about our hidden gems.